Tomos forum

Hey Tomos riders, goede dag,
I am new here and I think it's time for short presentation. My name is wolfram and I have some old cyclomoteurs like Peugeot 193 and so on. I live in Leipzig and I have a passion for old motorcycles. End of last year my neighbor gave me a tomos in some sad condition. So I decided to put some work on it and get it running.
I'm not sure what year it is.
It's a flexer and the cylinder says A5. I could start without the carburetor...
I hope to find nice tomos enthusiasts here who can help me with my little project.
Bedankt voor de eerste helft, wolfram

Hello Wolfram,

Welcome to the forum. Looking forward to your posts.

Hi shadowranger,
thanks for the welcome! I need to clean the tank first. Seems a bit difficult to shake the whole bromfiets, but I will see. Inside is really ugly and a clean tank is absolutely necessary for a smooth ride.
Some parts like gaskets and kickstart spring I need to buy. It will not end in a restauration where the bike looks like new. I like it more with patina when the bike can tell what happened in its lifetime.
Adios, wolfram

As I understand from your first post you're from Germany, I'm interested how you will register (or is registered) this 25 km/h moped (in dutch snorfiets). Do you also have to wear a helmet or not (in Holland as from juni 2022 it's mandatory)? As far as I know on a bike it's mandatory in Germany?
I thought in Germany mopeds have to be fitted with a cranck and pedals like a bike, on yours the are only steps and a kickstart. Can you drive your Tomos streetlegal in this way?
Has your frame a German type approval (Typgenehmigung)?

About flushing the tank/ frame, you can take a hose and flush most of the debris out. If it's not too rusty inside, you can just put fresh mixture inside (rate 1:50 or 2% mixoil). From fuel tap to carburetor there are some filters to keep the biggest mess out.

Hi shadowranger,
thanks for your remarks about cleaning the tank. I'm going to report that progress, maybe next week when it's not to cold in my garage...
In Germany you need to wear a helmet either riding a 25 km/h - we call it Mofa- or a moped with 40 km/h or more.
I have no papers for the Flexer and unfortunately I'm not familiar how to get them for tomos. No probs with my Peugeot's.
If I won't get papers from Tomos, one can make a single check at Dekra or TüV (Einzelabnahme) which costs app. 150 euros... Not so cheap.
Today I spent some time with the front wheel, the inside was corroded and nothing turned anymore. With plenty of ballistol and sandpaper it's working again
Adios, wolfram

Tomos itself is bankrupped, so don't expect to get some info there. Papers were never issued off factory.

About your first picture, that's your frame number that TuV will need when you want to make your Tomos legal with papers. In Holland is the same price when we have to go to a similar institute called RDW. Maybe you can find an other number on the opposite site with a circle and EU or countrycode. (e.g. DE or NL) which is the type approval.

Brakes are the worst because of aluminium and they corrode like hell when not taken care of properly

Thanks for the explanation with the paperwork!
Meanwhile I found a copy of the ABE so the first step for registration is done.
The front wheel is properly spinning again.
But I have a little problem with the carburetor dellorto 14/9. When I press the “choke “ the mechanism doesn’t lift up anymore when I open the gas slider. Perhaps I did something wrong reassembling after the cleaning in my ultrasound bath.
I am going to add some pictures of that later on.
Ciao, Wolfram

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OV-qbGy ... l=kjsmolik at 4.07

How am i to see this in relation this to your problem? Is this your fix?

Bedankt, good video.
I have assembled the spring incorrectly.
Ciao wolfram

How am i to see this in relation this to your problem? Is this your fix?

This clearly shows how it should be put together.

Update:
The motor is out and I wanted to replace the seals. But there are two screws at the manifold that looks weird. How can I take those two things out w/o making damage to the cylinder? Do they need to be drilled out?
This manifold is much too small and I want to replace it to inhale a bit more power to the engine.
Ciao wolfram

You can grind a slot in it with a dremel for a flat head screwdriver.
You can pull the bus out of the manifold with some homemade tools

Heat the manifold well, or use a pipe with a ring...otherwise the manifold may break

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8dkNlC ... el=Beuners

Thx! The workshop looks a bit funny but they got it done.
Seems to me that the reed valve has the same dimensions like those from my Peugeots.
Ciao wolfram

You can grind a slot in it with a dremel for a flat head screwdriver.
You can pull the bus out of the manifold with some homemade tools

Heat the manifold well, or use a pipe with a ring...otherwise the manifold may break

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8dkNlC ... el=Beuners

Worst DIY Home movie of how to remove manifold and how NOT to remove a restriction bus in the manifold. Amateurs!!

That's why putting a pipe with a ring on the manifold then pull it out, then you don't need a hammer or vice.
Video is indeed sad but you have some sense you have the bus out without a hammer.
Just removing the carburettor is enough to pull out the bushing.

Update: the manifold has been removed after cutting the screws without head with the dremel. Now it comes to remove the reduction ring inside of the manifold...
Ciao wolfram[attachment=2]IMAG1077.jpg[/attachment][attachment=2]IMAG1077.jpg[/attachment][attachment=1]IMAG1078.jpg[/attachment]

Heating the manifold to 200 degrees and turning an old Thread Tap m10 in it sometimes also works.

Or slide a tube of 18 mm inside of 5 cm long on the manifold and a carriage bolt m5 x 80 and grind the head back to 9 mm so that you can hook it behind the bush, put the washer and nut on it and you pull it out.

Salut,
I used a screw M6 with the corresponding nut on the other side of the reduction ring.
After heating the manifold with a heatgun from all sides, one clash with the hammer and the incrustation came out.
Now I'm going to inspect the cylinder...

Cylinder and piston are removed. One screwbolt has been fixed by welding and instead of M7 it has M6 on the end...
I hope that I can use a bolt of my Peugeot instead.
One of the piston rings is also blocked and needs some ultrasound in a bath of RME.
The cylinder head looks as big as a bath tube... That has to be changed. To be continued...